~Taking care
of your costume~
It’s sad to see a great costume
balled up in the corner of someone’s closet,
all lonely and wrinkled and being eaten by moths.
Don’t let this happen to your precious costume!
Here are some easy tips for taking care
of your costume and keeping it in top condition. You
may already be familiar with some of these simple
techniques, but perhaps you will pick up a few tidbits
you didn’t already know!
1. Packing
up
When packing up after a con it’s a good idea
to try to pack your costume just as neatly as when
you brought it to the con. Leave yourself a little
note if anything needs repairs so you can remember
to fix it later. Once you get home from the con it’s
best to keep your costumes in garment bags with all
the accessories in the bag. I put a note on the outside
of each of my bags with a list of the contents.
I keep wigs on wig heads, and put them
somewhere out of the way of my flailing arms. This
will help protect the style and shape.
I usually keep props in my closet or
in an area where they are unlikely to be interfered
with. If I am putting away something very delicate
I will wrap it in bubble wrap before storage. Or,
if you feel like doing something fancy with them,
you could always hang them on display somewhere!
| picture of neatly packed costume |
wig on a wig head |
2. Washing
your clothes
Smelling bad is something that we usually try to avoid!
However, sometimes it is a challenge to keep your
costumes from smelling funny because different materials
require different treatment, and you may not always
know how to care for every type.
I generally apply the “only clean
when needed” rule, which means that I don’t
clean it until it starts to smell. Normally I will
wash a shirt each time I wear it but a skirt or pants
are fine for a few more wears. I would also suggest
that you only wash the dirty pieces. Capes, jackets,
and other clothing items that don’t lie directly
against your body don’t generally need to be
cleaned unless you spill something on them, or you like mud wrestling.
Here is a basic care list
for different types of materials.
| Polyester,
spandex, and other synthetics:
These can easily be machine-washed and dried because
they are not prone to shrinking. These fabrics
iron well on medium settings. |
| Cotton, rayon:
Cotton can be machine-washed and
line-dried, but if you fear shrinking or your
garment is black/brightly colored you may want
to have it dry-cleaned so the colors don’t
bleed. Iron on high. |
| Silks:
Hand-wash and line-dry or dry-clean. Silk is very
delicate and can suffer from water stains, so
if you don’t trust yourself to wash it,
just take it to a dry-cleaner. |
| Wool, velvets
of various fiber contents: When
you have spent a lot of money on wool, just dry-clean
it! This helps keep it fresh. It’s best
to have the dry-cleaner press your garments for
you. If you would rather do it yourself, wool
should be done on a hot setting and velvet should
be done on a medium setting with typically very
gentle ironing from the back side only. Be careful
not to crush the fibers! |
| Vinyl, pleather:
Hand-wash and line-dry. If you have a tight stretch-vinyl
outfit I recommend washing it out right after
you’re done wearing it, otherwise the smell
has a tendency to stick! It may sound gross, but
make sure you really get in there and scrub those
armpits and other sweaty places! XD When ironing
make sure you use a presscloth. If you get any
gunk or paint on your pleather/vinyl it’s
actually pretty easy to remove. Just dampen a
paper towl with GooGone or lighter fluid and gently
whip away the yuckies. Be careful not to spill! |
| Handpainted, embroidered,
beaded: Hand-wash and line-dry
or dry-clean. You don’t want to want to
put stress on the paint or tug on the beads by
putting them in the washing machine. |
Armor and hard
pieces: Don’t put these
in the wash! If you get gunk on them try the
GooGone/lighter fluid method, or if that doesn’t
work you can even try a spray cleaner. Always
test a small corner of the armor first to make
sure there are no adverse effects of the cleaning
agent (some cleaning fluids may take paint off!)
If you have any garments with hard pieces that
can’t be removed then you should hand-wash
the cloth areas.
| The following substances are
likely to deform with water: Sculpey, Paper
clay, cardboard, paper mache, surfaces that
do not have a clear coat sprayed on. |
| The following substances are likely to
withstand water damage: Fiberglass. |
|
Wigs:
The only way to completely clean a wig is to get
it completely wet and gently scrub it with shampoo.
After that, let it air-dry. Once you have washed/dried
your wig you will need to restyle it. This may
be impossible with a very complex wig, so your
next best option is to freshen it up a bit with
Febreeze or spot-wash it.
Spot washing means you will
just be wetting and shampooing the netting on
the inside of the wig, then splashing water on
the netting to rinse. You should do this gently
and avoid getting the rest of the wig wet as much
as possible. Let the netting and any wet hair
air-dry, and adjust style if needed after it is
dry. Avoid using the blow drier, especially on
its hotest setting because it can damage the fibers. |